Green Bay Concrete Pros: Concrete Driveway Replacement and Flatwork in Green Bay, WI
Green Bay Concrete Pros is a concrete contractor licensed and insured in Wisconsin, serving Green Bay and Brown County. We tear out and replace driveways, patios, sidewalks and walkways, steps and stoops, garage and shop floor slabs, and stamped decorative concrete. We handle concrete tear-out and haul-away and commercial flatwork. We pour for houses, older homes across the Fox River valley, and commercial sites.
A driveway fails from the ground up, not the top down. We pour four inches of 4,000 PSI air-entrained concrete over four to six inches of compacted crushed stone, reinforced with rebar or mesh on chairs. Control joints get saw-cut about every ten feet and the slab is pitched to shed water. A thin slab poured on bare clay with no base, no steel, and no joints cracks and heaves through the first Green Bay winter.
Call for a Free Estimate- Licensed and insured in WI
- Locally owned, not a franchise
- 4,000 PSI air-entrained concrete
- Compacted crushed-stone base under every pour
- Serving all of Brown County
Concrete Driveway Replacement
An old driveway cracks, spalls, and settles because of what sits under it, not because of the concrete on top. We tear the slab out, dig down, and rebuild the base before we pour. Four to six inches of compacted crushed stone goes over compacted subgrade, so water drains through and the ground does not move. A driveway is only as good as the base beneath it.
The new slab is four inches of 4,000 PSI air-entrained concrete, five to six where an RV or a truck parks, reinforced with rebar or welded wire mesh set on chairs. We saw-cut control joints about every ten feet, set isolation joints at the garage, and pitch the surface a quarter inch per foot to drain. Air entrainment is what keeps Green Bay road salt from flaking the top off. More on concrete driveway replacement.
Concrete Patio Replacement
A patio that has heaved, cracked, or tipped back toward the house was poured on ground that moved. Frost gets under a thin slab on clay and lifts it a little more every winter. We remove the old patio, rebuild a compacted stone base, and repour so the surface sheds water away from the foundation instead of pooling against it.
The new patio is air-entrained concrete with control joints cut on a grid and isolation joints where it meets the house and the steps. You pick the finish, a broom texture for grip or a stamped pattern for looks. Either way the slab drains, and it is jointed so it cracks on the saw line rather than wandering across the surface. More on concrete patio replacement.
Sidewalk and Walkway Replacement
Walkway slabs tip and separate when frost and washed-out ground move them. A lifted edge becomes a trip hazard, and once one slab goes the joints on either side follow. We pull the broken sections, reset a compacted base, and pour new walk that sits flat and drains to the side instead of holding water in the low spots.
We form approach walks and front walks with a steady slope, isolation joints where the walk meets steps and the driveway, and control joints cut so the panels break clean. A frost break at the stoop lets the walk and the steps move on their own without dragging each other apart. Air-entrained concrete and a penetrating sealer stand up to the salt that gets shoveled across it all winter. More on sidewalk and walkway replacement.
Concrete Steps and Stoops
Steps pull away from the house when their footing sits above the frost line. Frost gets under a shallow footing, lifts the whole stoop, and opens a gap at the door. The steps look fine but they are riding on frozen ground. Patching the gap does nothing, because the footing keeps moving every year.
We pour steps and stoops on footings dug below the Green Bay frost line, so frost has nothing to grab. The concrete is air-entrained against salt and freeze-thaw, and the risers are tied to a base that stays put through winter. That is the difference between replacing the steps and patching the same crack every spring. More on concrete steps and stoops.
Garage and Shop Floor Slabs
A garage slab takes weight, water off tires, and salt tracked in all winter. When it was poured on loose fill it cracks and settles under the load. We tear out the failed floor, compact the base, and lay a vapor barrier so ground moisture does not push up through the slab and into whatever sits on it.
The new floor is air-entrained concrete with thickened edges under the walls and reinforcement through the middle, jointed so it cracks where we cut it. We pitch the slab toward the door so meltwater runs out rather than standing. A shop floor that carries heavier loads gets poured thicker and reinforced for it. More on garage and shop floor slabs.
Stamped and Decorative Concrete
Stamped concrete gives a patio, walk, or entry the look of stone or brick in one poured slab with no joints for weeds to grow through. We stamp patterns, add integral color or a stain, and expose aggregate for a textured finish. It is the same slab underneath, built on a compacted base and reinforced, with the pattern pressed into the surface.
Decorative work lives or dies on the sealer up here. A stamped surface needs a sealer that holds up to Green Bay freeze-thaw and the salt that comes with it, and it needs resealing on a schedule. We finish it right the first time and tell you what it takes to keep the color and the texture through the winters. More on stamped and decorative concrete.
Concrete Tear-Out and Haul-Away
Tear-out is the step that separates a real replacement from an overlay. We break up the old driveway, patio, or walk, and haul every piece off the site. Nothing gets poured over the top of a slab that already failed. The failure is usually the base, and you cannot fix the base without pulling what sits on it.
Once the old concrete is gone we dig out soft or washed-out fill, bring in crushed stone, and compact it in lifts so the new slab has ground that does not move. Then we grade it to drain. Doing the demo and the base as one job is what makes the repour last, instead of resting a fresh slab on the same bad ground. More on concrete tear-out and haul-away.
Commercial Flatwork
A parking lot, an approach apron, or a loading dock takes truck weight and salt that a driveway never sees. The failure is the same, from the base up, over a far larger surface. We tear out and repour commercial flatwork on a compacted stone base, thickened and reinforced for the loads it carries.
We build ADA sidewalks and ramps to slope, pour aprons and dock pads to grade, and lay out the joints so a big slab cracks where we cut it. The work can be staged after hours so a lot stays open through the business day. The method is the one we use on a house, sized up: compacted base, air-entrained concrete, jointed and pitched to drain. More on commercial flatwork.
Why Green Bay Homeowners Choose Us
- We rebuild the base, not just the slab. A driveway sinks and heaves because the ground under it moved. Every pour we do sits on four to six inches of compacted crushed stone over compacted subgrade. Start with concrete driveway replacement.
- Air-entrained concrete against salt. Road salt and freeze-thaw are what flake a surface apart up here. We pour 4,000 PSI air-entrained concrete and seal it, so the top does not spall through a Green Bay winter. Same on every patio and walk.
- Footings below the frost line. Steps and stoops pull off the house when frost lifts a shallow footing. We dig step and stoop footings below frost so they stay put.
- We tear out, we do not pour over. A fresh slab on a failed base fails again. We demo and haul the old concrete off, then rebuild the ground before the repour.
- Jointed and pitched to drain. We saw-cut control joints about every ten feet and pitch every slab to shed water. You get a written estimate before any work starts. See all our slab work.
Built for Green Bay Winters and Fox River Clay
Green Bay freezes hard and stays frozen. The frost line runs deep here, and frost is the strongest force working on a slab. Water in the ground freezes, swells, and lifts anything sitting on shallow fill. Every spring it thaws and drops back. A driveway, a walk, or a set of steps that was not built for that cycle moves a little more each year until it cracks or pulls apart.
The ground makes it worse. The Fox River valley sits on red lacustrine clay, fine lakebed soil that holds water and swells when it is wet. Clay under a slab freezes deeper and heaves harder than sand or gravel would. The fix is never to make clay behave. The fix is to cut the clay out from under the pour, replace it with compacted crushed stone that drains, and set footings below the frost line so nothing frozen can grab them.
Salt is the other winter problem. Green Bay roads and driveways get salted all season, and de-icing salt drives water into the surface where it freezes and flakes the top off. That is spalling. Air-entrained concrete gives the freezing water microscopic room to expand, and a penetrating sealer slows the salt and water getting in. A base that drains, a mix that is air-entrained, footings below frost, and a sealed surface are what a slab needs to last a Green Bay winter. De Pere is effectively a second city, and Ashwaubenon and Bellevue ring the rest of it. The clay and the cold stay the same across all of them. What changes lot to lot is how deep the bad fill runs.
Our 5-Step Concrete Process
Look and Quote
We look at the failed concrete, read what moved it, and check the ground around it. You get a written estimate with the scope and price before any breaking starts.
Tear-Out and Haul
We break up the old slab and haul every piece off the site. Nothing gets poured over a slab that already failed, because the base under it is usually the real problem.
Base and Grade
We dig out soft fill, bring in four to six inches of crushed stone, and compact it in lifts. Footings for steps and stoops go below the frost line. Then we grade it to drain.
Form, Steel, Pour
We form the slab, set rebar or mesh on chairs, and pour 4,000 PSI air-entrained concrete pitched a quarter inch per foot to shed water off the surface.
Joint, Finish, Seal
We saw-cut control joints about every ten feet, set isolation joints at the edges, finish the surface, and seal it against salt. We clean up and leave the site graded.
Concrete Cost in Green Bay
These are real price ranges for Green Bay and Brown County, not invented numbers. What you pay depends on the square footage, how thick the slab has to be, how much bad fill we have to dig out and replace, and how far off the old concrete has to be hauled. Every job gets a free written estimate before work starts.
| Service | Typical Range | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Concrete driveway replacement | $6,000 - $15,000 | Square footage, thickness, and base depth set the price |
| Concrete patio replacement | $4,000 - $10,000 | More for stamped or colored finishes |
| Sidewalk and walkway replacement | $2,000 - $6,000 | Length and how many panels are lifted or broken |
| Steps and stoops | $3,000 - $8,000 | Footings dug below the frost line drive the cost |
| Garage or shop floor slab | $5,000 - $12,000 | Size, thickness, and base rebuild |
| Concrete tear-out and haul-away | $1,500 - $5,000 | Slab size, thickness, and reinforcement to break out |
Small jobs, like a short front walk or a single stoop, start a few thousand dollars. A full driveway tear-out and repour on a rebuilt base runs into five figures, because the base and the demo are most of the work. The thing that moves the price most is what we find under the old slab. Solid ground pours cheap. Soft, washed-out fill that has to come out and be replaced with compacted stone does not.
What moves the price:
- Square footage and how thick the slab has to be poured
- How much soft or washed-out fill has to be dug out and replaced with compacted stone
- Footings dug below the frost line for steps and stoops
- Reinforcement, rebar or mesh, and a heavier mix for RV or truck loading
- Finish work, from a plain broom finish to stamped and colored concrete
- Hauling the old concrete off instead of leaving it on site
Base, Mix and Reinforcement
Compacted Crushed-Stone Base
The base is the job. Four to six inches of compacted crushed stone over compacted subgrade gives the slab ground that drains and does not settle. Water runs through the stone instead of freezing under the slab and lifting it. A slab poured on bare clay or loose fill cracks and sinks no matter how good the concrete is.
4,000 PSI Air-Entrained Concrete
Air-entrained concrete has microscopic air bubbles mixed through it. When surface water freezes, those bubbles give it room to expand instead of flaking the top off. That is what stops spalling from Green Bay salt and freeze-thaw. A 4,000 PSI mix is the strength we pour for driveways and flatwork that has to take weight and weather.
Rebar, Mesh and Fiber
Reinforcement does not stop concrete from cracking. It holds the cracks tight so the slab stays one piece. We set rebar on a grid or welded wire mesh on chairs in the middle of the slab, or run a fiber-reinforced mix, matched to what the slab has to carry. Steel resting on the ground does nothing; it has to sit in the middle of the pour.
Control and Isolation Joints
Concrete cracks. Control joints decide where. We saw-cut them about every ten feet so the slab breaks on a straight line you barely see instead of wandering across the surface. Isolation joints go where the slab meets the garage, the house, and the steps, so those pieces can move on their own without dragging each other apart.
Pitch, Sealer and Frost Footings
Every slab is pitched about a quarter inch per foot to shed water away from the house and the garage. A penetrating sealer slows salt and water getting into the surface. Steps and stoops sit on footings dug below the frost line, so frost has nothing to lift. Those four things, drainage, sealer, joints, and frost footings, are what carry a slab through the winters up here.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why does my concrete crack and spall in Green Bay?
Two forces do most of it. Frost gets under a slab on clay or loose fill, lifts it, and drops it every winter until it cracks. Road salt drives water into the surface, where it freezes and flakes the top off, which is spalling. Air-entrained concrete on a draining stone base, sealed against salt, stands up to both. See concrete driveway replacement.
Can you just resurface or level my old concrete instead of replacing it?
Resurfacing puts a thin coat over the top, and leveling lifts a settled slab back up. Neither one fixes a slab that is spalled, broken, or sitting on a failed base, because the problem is under the concrete, not on it. We tear the old slab out, rebuild the base, and pour new. That is what lasts on Green Bay clay.
Do you do mudjacking or concrete leveling?
No. Mudjacking and foam lift a settled slab back up, but if the base washed out or was never compacted, the slab comes back down. We replace concrete: we remove the old slab, rebuild a compacted stone base, and pour fresh. It costs more up front and it does not come back next year.
How thick should a concrete driveway be?
Four inches for a standard car driveway, five to six inches where an RV, a trailer, or a truck parks. Thickness is only half of it. The slab sits on four to six inches of compacted crushed stone, and it is reinforced with rebar or mesh set in the middle. Thickness without a base still cracks.
Why did my steps pull away from the house?
Their footing sits above the frost line. Frost gets under the shallow footing, lifts the whole stoop, and opens a gap at the door. Patching the gap does nothing because the footing keeps moving. We repour steps and stoops on footings dug below frost so they stay put.
What is air-entrained concrete and why does it matter here?
It is concrete with microscopic air bubbles mixed through it. When water in the surface freezes, the bubbles give it room to expand instead of flaking the top off. In a climate with hard freeze-thaw and heavy road salt, air entrainment is what keeps a driveway or a walk from spalling. We pour it on every outdoor slab.
Why do you tear the old slab out instead of pouring over it?
Because the base is almost always the reason the old slab failed. Pouring new concrete over failed ground just fails again on top of the same problem. We break the old slab out, haul it off, dig out the soft fill, and rebuild a compacted stone base so the new pour has ground that does not move. See tear-out and haul-away.
What are control joints and why does concrete need them?
Concrete cracks as it cures and as it moves through the seasons. A control joint is a saw-cut line that gives the slab a weak place to crack along, so it breaks on a straight line you barely notice instead of wandering across the surface. We cut them about every ten feet. They do not stop cracking; they aim it.
Should I seal my new concrete?
Yes, in this climate. A penetrating sealer slows de-icing salt and water from soaking into the surface, which is what drives spalling. New concrete gets sealed once it has cured, and it needs resealing on a schedule after that. Stamped and colored work needs it most, to hold the color through the winters.
How long before I can drive on a new driveway?
Concrete gains most of its strength in the first week, but it keeps curing for weeks after. We tell you when to stay off it on foot and when it will carry a vehicle, which depends on the mix and the weather during the pour. Cold slows curing, so a late-fall pour needs more time than a summer one.
When is the best time of year to pour concrete in Green Bay?
Late spring through fall is the working season. Concrete can be poured in cold weather with the right mix and protection, but deep winter frost stops most flatwork, since frozen clay is hard to excavate and compact. We book through the warm months and tell you honestly when a pour should wait for better conditions.
Are you licensed and insured?
Yes. We are a licensed and insured concrete contractor working across Green Bay and Brown County. Requests through this site are routed to a local, licensed, and insured concrete contractor who will contact you directly. You get a written estimate before any work begins.
Serving Green Bay and Brown County
We tear out and replace concrete throughout Green Bay and the towns around it in Brown County. The whole area shares the same clay and the same hard winters, so the same thing kills a slab everywhere: a base that was never built to drain and footings set above the frost line. We build for both.
Ready to Replace That Concrete?
Call (920) 555-0163 for a free estimate. Tell us what is failing: a cracked and spalling driveway, a patio that heaved, a walk with lifted slabs, steps pulling off the house, or a garage floor breaking up. Tell us how old it is and what the ground around it does in a hard rain. You will get a straight read on why it failed and what a proper replacement costs. We will tell you when a slab can wait and when the base is gone and it needs a full tear-out. No pressure and no fine print, just a clear answer from someone who pours concrete for Green Bay winters.